Here’s Why You Want a Serum in Your Skincare Routine

I’ve been talking skincare for quite some time.   I’m not a skincare professional by training, but among most of my friends, I’m the go-to source for all things related to skin.   Having said that,   I have been getting questions lately about serums.   Rather than lean solely on my own knowledge of serums and why they are beneficial to skin,   I have consulted with    Dr. Debra Jaliman, a board-certified NYC dermatologist,  Assistant Professor of Dermatology  Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai  and  author of the book,  Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist.  

Christene Carr: What is a serum?

Dr. Jaliman:    Serums are made up of smaller molecules that penetrate deep into the skin and supply a very high concentration of active ingredients.

CC: How does a serum differ from a moisturizer?

Dr. Jaliman:  A serum is more concentrated. A serum delivers potent ingredients directly into the skin. Moisturizers are less powerful but richer and create a barrier on skin’s surface.

CC: Can a serum be oil based?

Dr. Jaliman:  Most serums are water-based. The molecules in these serums are smaller and it’s applied before your moisturizer. An oil-based serum has larger molecules and it’s typically used after you apply your moisturizer. Their aim is to keep the cream and any other product you put underneath hydrated throughout the day.

CC: What is the best way to apply a serum?

Dr. Jaliman:  After you cleanse your face and typically before you apply your moisturizer. Because serums have potent ingredients, people with sensitive skin should test it on an area first to make sure they don’t get a reaction.

CC: We frequently get questions from our readers asking for serums to treat the skin concerns below. What ingredient should one look for in serums to treat each concern?

Dr. Jaliman:  

• Hyperpigmentation – vitamin c, glycolic acid
• Moisture Loss – squalene, hyaluronic acid, ceramides
• Dullness – glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalene, niacinamide
• Acne-Vitamin C, salicylic acid, niacinamide

CC: What are a couple of your favorite serums and why?

Dr. Jaliman:

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic    

• It has 15% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
• Great for anti-aging and it brightens skin and helps protect against oxidative stress
• Vitamin E neutralizes free radicals
• 0.5% ferulic acid enhances the antioxidant benefits of vitamins C and E
• ($166)

InstaNatural Niacinamide Serum

• It soothes the skin and prevents future irritation with the calming effects of Niacinamide.
• It has hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E, avocado oil and rosemary extract.
• Good price point ($18)

You have heard from    Dr. Jaliman,  now here are some of the serums I’m currently using:

Beauty Pie JapanFusion   Deep Treatment Serum

This serum is a “hybrid facial oil-meets-serum that is packed with grape polyphenols and citrus antioxidants, NMF (natural moisturizing  factor) boosters and powerful skin soothers.” I packed for a few recent trips to the tropics and it was the only serum on board. It provides a proper moisture boost and helps to balance my skin without feeling greasy or sticky. I love to use this under my  sunscreen in the day and under a lightweight gel-cream at night. (Member price $9.29. Non-Member price $95)

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum

After a few nights of continued use of this serum,   skin looks more radiant and feels super hydrated. The patented formula  maximizes ” the power of skin’s natural nighttime renewal with exclusive ChronoluxCB™ technology.”   While the name says “Night Repair”, this serum actually works really well under makeup. ($98)

Paula’ Choice   Resist Omega Complex

This super light-weight serum goes on like a dream — it simply disappears into skin.   It uses Omega 3, 6 and 9 oils along with ceramides and hydrating ingredients to help strengthen, treat and nourish the skin surface while fighting against environmental damage. Works great under sunscreen. ($36)

SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator

This serum uses 5 types of hyaluronic acid to restore moisture levels in the skin. If you have been slacking on skin hydration,    this is definitely a great place to start.   Treating dark spots? SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator plays nice with other products.   I have been combining this with Ambi Fade Cream to help fade dark spots.   I apply this serum first, then Ambi over it. ($178)

Do you have questions about Serums? Drop them in the comments.